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Scuba diving in Tobago is divided between the island’s Atlantic and Caribbean coasts, with a number of dive sites that are perfect for beginners. Although Tobago’s Atlantic side can be prone to the strong currents and somewhat murky visibility brought on by the Guyana current driving from the south, the Caribbean side of the island is sheltered from the current and offers calm diving in clear waters.
The reefs range from shallow water – perfect for divers taking their first steps into the open ocean – to deeper reefs to explore later in entry-level training and beyond. Some reefs are easily reachable from shore, making for an easy introduction to diving for those who may not be familiar with boats.
There are more than 50 established dive sites around the island, but here are some of the most popular beginner-level dive sites to whet (or perhaps wet?) the prospective visitor’s appetite.
2. Flying Reef
Depth range: 5-14m/18-45ft
Diving experience: Beginner
Flying Reef’s Atlantic waters are a good introduction to drift diving for the beginner. The current is usually mild, running between 0-2 knots, although at times the pace can pick up – giving the reef its ‘flying’ name. Look out for stingrays, turtles, nurse sharks, schools of both big-eye and glass-eye snapper as well as reef fish like parrotfish, French angelfish, and porcupinefish. A particular highlight is the sunken ship’s anchor – where pork fish and schools of Bermudan chub gather.
5. Kariwak Reef
Depth range: 3-17m/10-55 feet
Diving experience: Beginner
Located about 35m/120ft off Store Bay, Kariwak Reef is easily accessible as either a shore or boat dive, and a local favourite for night dives, since it is so easy to navigate. The absence of current and the array of colour and marine life makes the reef an underwater photographer’s delight. Flying gurnards can be spotted ‘walking’ about on their finger-like spines across the sandy bottom, and Nassau groupers, balloon fish, lizardfish, barracuda, green morays, spotted eagle rays, and Christmas tree worms can often be spotted during a dive.
7. Mt Irvine Wall
Depth range: 5-15m/18-50ft
Diving experience: Beginner-Intermediate
Mount Irvine reef is actually comprised of three dive sites – The Wall and Extension being the two most popular, with the third, Rainbow Reef, situated in the middle. The Wall is a shallow 10m/30ft dive site close to shore and full of interesting crevices, where moray eels, spiny lobsters and crabs congregate.
Extension is a deeper dive site that follows the outcropping rocks of Mount Irvine Bay. Big enough for several distinct dives, this beautiful reef is a perfect spot to see large groupers, snapper and hawksbill turtles – as well as the shy spotted eagle ray that rarely approaches divers and tends to travel in pairs.
Rainbow Reef is a little more advanced with a depth of between 15-22m/50-70ft, and is named for the large schools of rainbow runners that can congregate over the reed. There is also a large fisherman’s anchor, possibly dating back to the 17th century, wedged into the reef.
10. Cardinal Rocks
Depth range: 6-22m/20-75 feet
Diving experience: Beginner
This dive is a spawning ground for many species of fish and the presence of millions of fries tend to give the water a milky appearance. The reef slopes steeply to a sandy seabed where Southern stingrays, spiny lobsters, yellowhead jawfish and small snake eels can be seen. Also look out for moray eels, fairy basslets, cardinalfish, queen, French and grey angelfish, and hawksbill turtles
15. Angel Reef
Depth range: 15-60ft/4-18m
Diving experience: Beginner
A fantastic canvas for photographers with a naturally blessed variety of corals and fish.
Here, visibility is usually good and with a quiet current, making this reef an excellent choice for night dives. There are a number of cleaning stations along the reef, providing great opportunities to snap pictures of cleaning shrimps picking parasites off of momentarily paused angelfish, groupers, snappers and parrotfish.
Enjoy close-up shots of star, starlet, honeycomb and plate corals dotted with sea plumes as well as black sea and bent sea rods.
To find out more about Tobago’s dive sites, visit:
