Could this little-known island on the southern extreme of the Maldives be the world’s next great shark-diving destination?
Report by David Double. Photographs Alastair Scarlett, Matthew Ruane and Dave Double
Sitting just under the Equator at the southern extreme of the Maldives is the little-visited island of Fuvahmulah. It is very different from the hundred or so holiday resort islands dotted throughout the 800-kilometre chain of coral atolls stretching northwards in the Indian Ocean that make up the archipelago.
This 4.5-kilometre by 1.2-kilometre island is a living, working community of more than 8,500 people. There are roads, schools, homes and mosques, rather than Michelin-starred restaurants, infinity pools and water villas of the luxury resort-only islands. In fact, it is the third most populous island in the Maldives.
It is also one of the few Maldivian islands that is not surrounded by a coral lagoon. Rather, it is a volcanic bowl with the interior covered in tropical woodlands, freshwater lakes known as kilhis, and verdant marshlands. This unique habitat within the Maldives is rich with endemic plant and animal species. It is a vital staging post for migratory birds – more than 167 bird species are found on the island. Maldivians consider Fuvahmulah the most beautiful of the 1,200 islands that make up the archipelago.
It is a one-island atoll and the third-largest in size in the Maldives (excluding those such as the new Dhaalu international airport island which was extended by land reclaim). Unlike most other islands it has working farms growing mangoes, pineapples and a range of vegetables such as aubergines and peppers.
Stuck out in the deep Equatorial Channel, which separates Huvadhu Atoll from Addu Atoll, Fuvahmulah has long been a centre of tuna fishing. There is evidence that for more than 1,000 years, it has had a thriving tuna fishery. The rich waters surrounding the island are brimming with not just tuna but other pelagic species such as scalloped hammerhead sharks, oceanic manta rays, whale sharks, thresher sharks, melon-headed whales and a substantial population of tiger sharks. The submerged reef, which extends for about three kilometres to the island’s southeast, is the most biodiverse in the Maldives, with more than 1,200 species recorded.
These natural wonders led to UNESCO declaring Fuvamulah a biosphere reserve in 2020 – the only such reserve in the Maldives.
Fishing is still the main occupation on the island. The locals use pole-and-line techniques which keep fish populations healthy and sustainable for future generations. No nets nor long lines are used, which have decimated many other tuna fisheries. The islanders live by the philosophy of taking from the ocean and giving back to the ocean. This means that once they’ve gutted the fish, the remains are put back into the sea. Herein lies the reason why this island is so special and could soon be joining the ranks of Cocos Island and the Galápagos Islands as one of the very best shark-diving destinations on the planet.
Over hundreds of years, a vast population of tiger sharks have become habituated to feeding on these scraps. A recent count identified more than 160 individuals, many of them pregnant females, hanging around a ledge outside the harbour entrance, ready to pounce on the tuna titbits.
It is thought that hundreds more are regular visitors to the waters around the island, making it quite possibly the home of the largest concentration of tiger sharks on the planet. Add to that the bounty of the other pelagics found in the area, plus the remarkable reef-fish biodiversity, and you have a very special diving destination.
TIGER, TIGERS
His friends call him Lonu (the local word for saltwater) as Nasheed Ahmed was always in the ocean surfing (one of the advantages of not being surrounded by a coral lagoon is that the waves break onto the beach), or out fishing. Much to the horror of his friends, he decided he wanted to see the ever-present tiger sharks on their own terms, taught himself to scuba dive, and jumped into the water at the edge of the harbour. He was mesmerised by what he found. Milling around the sandy rubble outside of the harbour were dozens of tiger sharks. He soon noticed that a significant number were heavily pregnant females. They seemed mildly interested in him but far more engaged with feeding on the tuna scraps. They were beautiful, graceful and exciting. The sharks quickly became his passion.
Seven years ago, he opened the first dive centre on the island, now called Shark Island Dive. He also founded the Fuvahmulah Marine Foundation to help conserve the island’s biodiversity, and organise and regulate the shark diving. Very few tourists and even fewer divers were visiting the island back then. But, like a saltwater version of the Kevin Costner movie Field of Dreams, word slowly spread, first among dive guides working on the resort islands and, later, intrepid independent travellers started to arrive. Covid-19 interrupted the trickle, but more and more divers are now coming to share Lonu’s passion.
I visited Fuvahmulah with my wife Louise and four other divers with Ocean Culture Life in February this year. Our trip was guided by underwater photographer Jono Allen.
The first time you jump into the water outside the harbour, you are glad you are with Lonu and have absorbed his thorough briefing. As you settle on the sand between eight to ten metres depth (depending on the tide), it takes some getting used to when you realise you are surrounded by maybe five or even ten tiger sharks. The most tiger sharks we encountered at one time was 16, on a wall dive away from the harbour. Evolution hasn’t equipped humans with 360-degree vision, leaving you feeling quite vulnerable at times.
As my nerves started to settle, I began to take in the scene unfolding in front of me. There was a distinct hierarchy among the sharks. Smaller sharks yielded to the larger ones. Once the large females had had their fill, they left the ledge and slipped gently into the darkness; the younger sharks would come in to fight over the scraps. These younger sharks darted around more quickly than the larger, more majestic females, meaning you had to be more vigilant when they were nearby. As you watched, you realised the sharks had distinct personalities. Some were hyper-inquisitive and would turn abruptly towards you to see if you were hiding fish from them. They seemed like puppies looking for scraps from the dinner table. Other would sedately glide past with a wary eye on you as if to say ‘Stay there, little human, this is my kingdom and I’m tolerating you’. Some would carefully approach you, wary, but curious. They behaved much like a strange dog might do if it came across you on a beach – bouncing up, sniffing and then running off.
At no point did I or my fellow divers believe we were on the menu. Of course, the tiger sharks were inquisitive. But this seemed to be friendly curiosity; as Jono put it, ‘puppies with a mouth like a chainsaw!’
While the shark dives were the trip’s high point, the rest of the diving was exceptional. The reefs were some of the healthiest I have seen in the Maldives in decades. Gentle drift dives over vibrant corals, watching turtles grazing, skirting around triggerfish guarding their eggs, being stared out by beady-eyed moray eels. Bliss!
Fuvahmulah is going to change over the next few years. I can only hope that the efforts of Lonu and people such as Jono safeguard the island’s future, and that the divers who come to see the tiger sharks and all the other marine delights treat this extraordinary island with the respect it deserves.
SPECIES GUIDE: TIGER SHARK GALEOCERDO CUVIER
TAXONOMY: The tiger shark is a type of requiem shark of the Carcharhinidae family and the only living member of the genus Galeocerdo. Like all of the 270 different species of Carcharhiniformes, it has two dorsal fins, an anal fin, five-gill slits and has nictitating membrane over its eyes. It was first described in 1822 and, at the time, named Squalus cuvier.
SIZE & WEIGHT: Adults commonly reach between 3.25m and 4.25m in length and weigh up to 635 kilograms. Tiger sharks are dimorphic, with the females being the larger sex. There are records of exceptionally large females reaching in excess of 5m in length. One pregnant female caught in Australia measured 5.5m and weighed 1,524kg. It is the fourth-largest extant shark and the second-largest predatory shark (the great white being the largest).
DISTRIBUTION & HABITAT: Found around the world in tropical and temperate waters, it stays on or near the continental shelves and ranges from the surface to depths of 900m. It is often found in estuaries and near harbours. Another common haunt is around coral atolls. In the Pacific, it is found from Japan down to New Zealand. In the Indian Ocean, it is found throughout the East African coast, in the Maldives and around the shores of India and Southeast Asia. Tiger sharks can be seen in the Gulf of Mexico and in most of the Caribbean, and there are even recorded sightings in the Mediterranean.
DIET: Larger tiger sharks tend to swim close inshore at night to feed, and head out to deeper waters during the day. However, good food supplies, such as around Fuvahmulah harbour in the Maldives, will attract large specimens during the day. Nicknamed ‘the dustbins of the sea’, they eat almost anything. Younger ones tend to prey on small fish, jellyfish and cephalopods. As they mature, the diet extends to crustaceans, sea birds, marine mammals and, a particular favourite, sea turtles, mainly green turtles and loggerheads. They will eat sharks and rays and even other tiger sharks. A study in Australia found the remains of dugongs in 15 of 85 tiger shark stomachs examined. Another study in Hawaii found remains of terrestrial mammals, including horses, goats, sheep and dogs, in tiger shark stomachs.
REPRODUCTION: Tiger sharks bear very large litters, with an average of between 26 to 33 pups born in spring to early summer. Mating occurs in spring – sometimes before pregnant females have given birth, as gestation takes 15 to 16 months. They are the only species in its family that is ovoviviparous – that is, the eggs hatch internally, and the pups are born live. Sexual maturity is when the males reach 2.8m to 2.9m in length, and the females 2.5m to 3.5m
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GROWTH: Tiger sharks are fast-growing and reach maturity between four and 13 years, depending on region. It is thought they live to at least 22 years, with some studies suggesting they may live as long as 37 years.
RANGE: They are strong swimmers and have been known to undertake lengthy solo migrations, possibly for reasons of mating and pupping. Some tiger sharks have been tagged and discovered to journey thousands of kilometres a year. There are also semi-resident populations which barely move 100 kilometres each year. Most tiger sharks appear to be fairly solitary when mature, but there are aggregations when adults gather to feast on seasonal food supplies, such as the fledging of albatross chicks in the Pacific.
THREAT: IUCN Red List – Near Threatened: In the Indian Ocean, tiger sharks have been intensely targeted by fishing. While the meat is poor, the liver oil and skin are highly valued. Its large fins are also prized in the Hong Kong markets. Population numbers have declined, but there is some evidence that juvenile survival rates increase when adults are depleted.
DIVING WITH TIGER SHARKS: Usually tiger sharks are unaggressive when encountered underwater by divers, and are commonly seen in shark-feed dives in The Bahamas and now Fuvahmulah.
DIVE’S GUIDE TO FUVAHMULAH
The island was only opened to tourists in 2016, but despite the interruption of Covid-19, it has had relatively rapid growth in tourism infrastructure, with small guesthouses and B&Bs opening up, a handful of dive centres and a smattering of restaurants and cafés catering for travellers. However, it is important to realise that this is not the luxury end of the travel market that anyone who has been to the Maldives in recent years will have experienced.
GETTING THERE
Dave Double travelled in a group organised by with Ocean Culture Life in the UK (www.oceanculture.life, info@oceanculture.life). Most travellers reach the island independently. There are two daily flights from Malé to Fuvahmulah operated by Maldivian (https://maldivian.aero). A round-trip fare is approximately US$480 per person. The adventurous could take a cargo boat from Malé to Fuvahmulah. You can also reach Fuvahmulah by ferry from Addu Atoll in the south. Ferries are operated by Southern Transport Link and take between 45 and 90 minutes, depending on the weather. Tickets need to be pre-booked and cost around US$20 each way. Addu Atoll is served by Gan International Airport in Addu City.
DIVE CENTRES
Shark Island Dive: The first dive centre on the island, founded and run by Lonu (Nasheed Ahmed). Offers packages including hotels and transfers, https://sharkislanddive.com
Pelagic Divers: Run by experienced PADI instructor Ahmed Inah, an islander who has worked for 14 years in dive centres across the Maldives. Hotel and diving packages available, www.pelagicdiversfuvahmulah.com
Olige Diving: Another well-run centre, also known as Extreme Dive Fuvahmulah. Hotel and diving packages, https://oligediving.com
PLACES TO STAY
The guesthouses and hotels are friendly, fairly basic but will have everything you may need from Wi-Fi to air-conditioning. Prices range from £35 to £100 a night. Many offer diving-included packages and can arrange your transfer from the international airport in Malé.
Olige Diving: Another well-run centre, also known as Extreme Dive Fuvahmulah. Hotel and diving packages, https://oligediving.com
Marina Boutique Hotel: One of the first hotels to open on the island. Linked to Lonu’s dive centre and where the author’s party stayed. It has eight air-conditioned rooms and suites, including a penthouse suite and a grand suite with a pool. They also have bicycles for guests and an airport shuttle service. www.marinaboutiquehotel.com
Tigershark Residence: With six air-conditioned rooms, this guesthouse is another popular with divers and works closely with Lonu. On-site pool and in-house restaurant. http://thetigersharkresidence.com
Zero Degree Residence: In a garden setting a ten-minute walk from Thoondu Beach with 24-hour reception, room service, free Wi-Fi, and a shared lounge and a terrace with sunbeds. www.zerodegree-residence.com
Cottage 316: A shared lounge and kitchen, terrace, and a beautiful garden. Six rooms, including two-bedroom and four-bedroom suites. Provides bike and car hire facilities for guests, https://cottage316.com
Calyx Grand: A small and friendly beachfront hotel. The third-floor terrace is a great place to hang out. Free Wi-Fi and bicycle hire. https://calyxgrand.com
PLACES TO EAT
Excellent seafood, wonderful tropical fruits, plenty of Indian and Asian cuisine and even a touch of Mexico. New cafés and restaurants are opening up every month, so ask around about the latest places.
Pebbles: Tables under thatched gazebos close to Thoondu Beach, serving traditional Maldivian delicacies along with Thai, Indian and other international cuisines.
Royal Restaurant: Near the harbour, with a wide range of curries and seafood available. One of the best places to try Kattelhi fish stew – a local delicacy made from a rare deepwater fish that in the Maldives is only found on this island. Pre-order for the best fish.
Real Breeze: Great Indian curries and the fish buns have a dedicated following.
Runway 29: Small, popular café opposite the airstrip, open from breakfast until dinner. Good ‘Hedhikaa’ menu of snacks and small meals.
Zeppelin: One of the newest on the island, serving excellent quesadillas. Also has a sheesha lounge
GETTING ABOUT
An asphalt road runs from the airport, skirting the island’s western edge, connecting arterial roads in between. Except for this main road, much of the streets are unpaved and uneven. Most of the island is accessible via bicycles, available for hire at shops and some hotels and guesthouses. Motorbikes are also a popular method of transport and readily available for hire. There is also a very efficient taxi network with pre-booking only.
DON’T MISS
Thoondu Beach: Located towards the north of the island, Thoondhu is famous for its shiny white, smooth pebbles. It also has the only surf break in the Maldives. Surfing has recently become popular with the islanders and while there are as yet no schools, most hotels can arrange surf sessions with skilled locals.
The Lakes: Bandaara Kilhi and Dhadimagi Kilhi form the island’s Nature Park, complete with a boardwalk, boating, freshwater swimming and picnic areas, surrounded by stunning vegetation and endemic wildlife.
MONEY
There are a few ATMs and a couple of banks which do foreign exchange. US dollars are widely accepted but in grocery stores, the Maldivian Rufiyaa is preferred. Some hotels and restaurants take credit cards.
